Plastic Panorama Camera Modifications

Kodak “Fun Saver Panoramic 35”  disposable cameras reloaded with Tri-X film.

I started shooting with the Kodak “Fun Saver Panoramic 35” disposable cameras in 1992. Over the years, I have purchased over a dozen of them. In time, and after hundreds of rolls of film run through them they do eventually crap out (shutter freezes). Since Kodak no longer makes these gems, I have been trying to find a plastic camera to take its place when the last one stops working.

Eximus Wide & Slim

I have found that modifying a Superheadz Black Slim Devil, and the Eximus Wide & Slim (same camera with a different name on it). with the mask, or panoramic insert from one of the dead Kodak cameras makes for an almost perfect replacement for the Kodak disposable.

A Superheadz Black Slim Devil before modification.

A dremel rotary tool is used to take off the innermost parts of the mask from the old Kodak disposable, then I use super glue to make it stay put (the fit is near perfect), then using some thick enamel paint I touch up the edges to stop any stray light leaks.

The results are remarkably similar to the Kodak disposable.

The Kodak has a 25mm f=12 lens that is sharper in the center and softer at the edges than the Superheads Black Slim Devil’s 22mm f=8 lens.

I have also used an Ansco Pix Panoramic plastic camera, this isn’t a bad panoramic camera, a little softer and not as soft at the edges than the Kodak or the Superheadz. It uses the same removable panoramic insert that is in the Kodak. It has a 28mm f=8 lens.


4 thoughts on “Plastic Panorama Camera Modifications

  1. funny, I came the other way around. tried a uws some time ago and I’ve been looking for a cheap wide angle camera like it since.
    after I read about you on four corners dark, I found my own kodak stretch 35. I haven’t really seen one like it amongst yours. it has more of a cross-hair viewfinder.

    • The “Stretch 35” is an earlier version of the “Fun Saver Panoramic 35” camera. As far as I can tell the viewfinder is the only difference. You’re going to need a darkroom or changing bag to reload it, the film is pulled from the cassette and rolled onto the take-up real, then when you advance the film it’s pulled back into the cassette. Also, if you reload with 36 exposures you need to advance the film 5-6 frames because it’s too hard to advance and will scratch the film. 24’s are probably the better way to go, but I never did… Watch the hole next to the shutter release button as you advance the film, a black metal piece pops over, this indicates that you have advanced the film far enough. There is no stop on the advance and the counter doesn’t function. Good luck and have fun!

      • thanks 🙂 I’ve shot the film that was in and I’m waiting for the prints now. I also opened it up and loaded it with ilford fp4+. just enough for 10 shots or so to see that I can get it to work. I pretty much mutilated the back of the camera so it’s in three pieces now, taped together. how did you get yours off so cleanly?

  2. I’ve used Ilford FP-4 through them before with very good results. I take them apart very carefully! The first few times usually requires a screw driver or flat metal object to pry apart the pieces (on the film cassette side), than after doing it a few time I can get them apart with my thumb. Be careful when putting them back together as well, the tabs that hold them together are easy to snap off.

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